Published March 10, 2010, 01:10 PM

All chardonnays are not equal

By: Jessica Mizia, Living North

Have you ever felt overwhelmed while shopping for a bottle of chardonnay? Chardonnay has a reputation as a safe white wine to pick up last minute. But how do you really know which bottle of chardonnay is the sure thing?

Chardonnay is the chameleon of the grapes. It is easily persuaded to become

what the land and wine maker want it to be. So depending on what I am in the mood for, I start geographically.

Let’s begin with France, exploring the region of Burgundy. When you see

Chablis, Cote d’Or, Cote de Nuits, Cote de Beaune, Cote Chalonnaise,

Maconnais and Beaujolais, they all equal chardonnay.

Chablis is a town that grows fantastic chardonnay grapes. The winemakers

use neutral oak or stainless steel barrels, resulting in a more pronounced

lean fruit with smoky metallic flavors. It’s a perfect match if you want a clean wine without the high acid of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and if you’re accompanying it with fish or simple appetizers.

Now within the region of Maconnais, the villages Macon, St. Veran and Pouilly-Fuisse all produce chardonnay resulting in wonderful values, especially if you see Macon-Villages on the label. Stylistically the villages have well-rounded fruit, honey tones and an overall appeasing

wine. It is half the cost of the other Burgundian wine regions.

If you really are in the mood to treat yourself, shop for a Cote de Beaune in the towns Puligny-Montrachet, Aloxe-Corton, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. Here you will find a white wine that is worth sipping and

appreciating. The intoxicating aromas of honey, crème brulee, truffles and vanilla are sure to spark engaging conversations over the elegant wines.

Heading back over the pond, explore Willamette Valley, Oregon. It’s famous

for pinot noir but it also makes wonderful, rich, rounded chardonnay.

The wine is well-balanced and is always a good choice. A majority of the

vineyards are farmed organically, which is an added bonus. One to try is Bethel Heights Chardonnay.

California has many unique climate zones, resulting in a wide variety of

chardonnay. Northern California has the Mendocino, Lake County and Amador

wine regions. Napa Valley and Sonoma County have the ability to produce

jaw-dropping chardonnay. Pay attention to the location of the vineyard. The sun does not lie, and sometimes you can wind up with an over-ripe wine that is too high in alcohol.

The Napa Valley floor and the Russian River Valley produce decadent,

spicy wine loaded with ripe pears and apple pie.

Southern California has fabulous chardonnay. Here you have Paso Robles

(think “Sideways”), Edna Valley and Santa Maria and Santa Ynez Valley.

A last tip while reading the wine label: French and Hungarian oak is more

neutral than American oak. If you like spicy, rich wines, look for American oak.

And here’s an interesting factoid for you: Minnesota is one of the leading

producers of oak for the wine industry.

Jessica Mizia represents The Wine Co. to area restaurants and wine shops.

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